Originally published 2020/05/01
Fast fashion, a contemporary term that’s used to describe mass production of inexpensive clothing. For meeting the latest trends and demands has led to affordability, but unsustainability.
快时尚，是当下用以描述批量生产的平价服饰。其为跟紧最新潮流与市场需求，逐渐走近了大众却伤及了环境。
People shopping at Primark, which is one of the biggest fast-fashion retailers in the world.
大家在普里马克（世界最大的快时尚服装经销商之一）购物。
(Photo: UN Environment Program)
（图片来源：UN环境保护项目)
Why is it called “fast” fashion? In fast fashion, garment production is fast due to its massive scale, people purchase garments fast because of their low cost, and garments get discarded fast, as they are not made to last.
为何称之为“快”时尚？顾名思义，流水线的生产加快了生产速度，以降低成本和服装售价。因其目的不在于持久性，故生产正在不断增加以继而代之。
If you frequently buy economical clothing, from the Z store, the H store, or the U store. You are either a saver (good for you) or someone that doesn’t want to commit to a piece of clothing. Some people are intrigued by fast fashio solely because they like the idea of wearing something and then tossing it in the trash in a week or two.
如果你常在熟知的某Z、H或U等连锁店购入平价服装，那你可能是个省钱小能手，亦或是想尝试不同的穿衣风格。快时尚的“快、准、狠” 刺激着我们的消费冲动，即便许多衣服没穿几次就被丢进了垃圾桶。
Fashion at a Cost 需求背后的代价
Because of the growing demand for more affordable and trendier clothing, garment production has approximately doubled since 2000, and fast fashion is taking a toll on the environment. According to relevant statistics, 85% of ALL textiles are disposed into landfills yearly. This massive amount of textile waste is enough to fill the Sydney Harbor. Since most garments in fast fashion are made of nonbiodegradable materials, like polyester and nylon, they can take up to 200 years to decompose.
当下产业为顺应市场增长的需求，将服饰逐一大众化以紧随潮流，却不知其害。自2000年起，服装生产量如今早已翻倍，但却对环境造成了极大的伤害。年均有85%的纺织品通过垃圾地埋处理，如此巨大的待分解量甚至可以填满悉尼港。
Photo: Getty Images. 图片来源：盖帝图像
Moreover, the washing of synthetic textiles, such as polyester (essentially a plastic fiber), releases 500,000 tons of microplastic particles into the oceans annually. It is equivalent to 50 billion plastic bottles. according to a study that was conducted by The University of California, Santa Barbara,
Every time a synthetic jacket is washed ~1.7 grams of microplastic particles are released from the washing machine. 40% of these particles still enter our water bodies after traveling through wastewater treatment plants.
此外，合成材料的洗涤，如我们熟知的聚酯（实为一种塑料纤维），每年会释放50万吨塑料微粒进大海中，相当于5百亿塑料瓶。据加州圣巴巴拉大学的研究来看，每洗一次合成材料制成的外套，都会在洗衣机中释放约1.7克的塑料微粒，而其中的40%会通过废水装置。
The marine plastic pollution that this has led to is particularly posing a threat to marine life. Firstly, some marine species indiscriminately interact with all particles within the ocean through their gills. Once microplastics are captured and accumulated in the gills, they are extremely difficult to get rid of.
海洋污染最为严峻的问题在于对于其中海洋生物的影响。首先，部分物种会不加选择地用鳃过滤海洋中的所有颗粒。一旦它们吸入并食用了塑料微粒，便难以摆脱。
Moreover, as microplastics resemble some of the organic matters that marine animals feed on. They are often mistaken for food and ingested marine animals that accidentally ingest a substantial amount of microplastics often die before reproductive age due to gastrointestinal blockages, organ stress, or inability to breathe.
此外，塑料颗粒与海洋动物所食的有机物十分相像，故经常会大量地错食。其中有不少皆因呼吸堵塞或器官衰竭而在繁殖年龄前逝去。流进我们的水域。
It doesn’t end here among the 114 aquatic species that have been found to contain microplastics, over half ends up being our meals. Right now, as you are reading this, your gut may be processing some delicious microplastics if you have a fish-rich diet.
这还不是全部。超114种水生动物皆被发现食有塑料微粒，其中大多是我们常见的海鲜。屏幕前的我们，或许都在不经意间吃到过被污染了的鱼，让人难以想象。
Although the effect of microplastics on human health hasn’t been confirmed yet due to the lack of research options,We do know that the chemicals that plastics often come with, such as flame retardants, stiffeners, and water repellants, can lead to abnormal hormonal function, weight gain, birth defect or even cancer. Scientists predict that more experimental findings will be obtained in 5-10 years, but by then at least another 25 million tons of plastic will enter our oceans, and harm our marine life.
尽管塑料微粒对人类的影响尚还未被证实，我们却知道附着在塑料上的化学物质，如阻燃剂、加强剂及防水剂可能会导致荷尔蒙紊乱，体重上升，新生缺陷，甚至于癌症。科学家预测在5-10年内，会有更多实验研究来证明，但届时，或至少再增加2.5千万吨海洋垃圾，危及海洋动物与我们的生命。
You don’t need another polyester shirt (It honestly isn’t worth your money because it has no breathability and durability).
Our oceans don’t need another polyester shirt.
Our marine animals don’t need another polyester shirt.
我们不再需要多一件的聚酯衬衣，（不透气还不禁穿，不值这个价钱啊！）我们的大海同样也不能承受再多的负担，我们的海洋动物也不应再为此而丧命。
What You Can Do To Help 举手之劳，未来之光
Next time when shopping for new clothes, primarily aim for sustainability. If you like living on this planet avoid fast fashion labels that sacrifice sustainability for the bucks, and look for garments that are made of eco-friendly fibers.
These include:
- Plant-based fibers such as cotton, linen, and ramie
- Animal-based fibers like responsible wool, responsible cashmere, and silk
- Recycled fibers including recycled polyester and recycled nylon
- Semi-synthetic fibers like pineapple fiber and sustainable bamboo
如果你热爱我们身处的环境，等再去买衣服的时候，可以试着从持续性出发考虑。少考虑一次对环境有害的快时尚服饰，多购入一件于环境友好的耐穿衣服，皆是我们力所能及之事。可考虑的衣料有：
- 以植物产出的棉花、亚麻及苎麻
- 符合责任标准的羊毛、羊绒及丝绸
- 循环利用的聚酯及尼龙
- 半合成的菠萝及竹纤维
The criteria for eco-friendly fibers. // 对于环境友好衣料的评判标准。
Photo: SustainYourStyle, 图片来源：SustainYourStyle
You can also improve the sustainability of your wardrobe by buying second-hand clothing, and learning how to sew from scratch.
我们也可以开始尝试衣橱的转变，二手的衣服和自己缝的衣服，都是不错的选择！
On a hopeful note, a part of the fashion industry is realizing that it desperately needs sustainability. From individuals to big companies, many in the fashion industry are taking initiative by turning problems into opportunities. Actress Maggie Q, who gained fame through the TV show “Nikita”, has a whole athleisure line that’s made out of recycled plastic.
诸多服装品牌也开始顾及到环境保护的问题，我们要相信—未来可期。从个体到企业，无一不在试图将危害转化为潜能。此外，演员李美琪，以《尼基塔》为大众所知的她，也在尝试和推广回收塑料的服装制作。
Maggie Q’s Ocean Tie-Dye Project. // 李美琪的海洋服装扎染项目。
(Photo: Medicine World Council) //（图片：世界医药委员会）
The same approach was taken by the fast-fashion retailer H&M. Its Conscious Collection, which used a type of fabric that’s synthesized from ocean plastic waste, was launched back in 2019 to make fast fashion more sustainable.
H&M近年来也有类似的尝试，有一系列便是采用了由海洋垃圾合成的布料。其产品于2019年上市，试图去改善快时尚产业对环境的影响。
H&M’s Conscious Collection. // H&M的Conscious系列，皆采用环保有机材料制作。
(Photo: H&M)
(图片来源：H&M）
At the end of the day, we, as consumers of fashion, can decide its future.
YOU get to decide its future. It’s time to prioritize sustainability over.
Style, Price, and Brand,
As we must save our oceans
At their last gasp.
最后，
去决定未来的，是支付每一笔费用的我们。大海来自每一滴水，而每一份改变都离不开你我每一个人的努力。
东隅已逝，桑榆未晚。
拯救海洋，尚还不迟。
Sources 信息来源
DeSantis, L., 2019. This New Athleisure Line By Actress Maggie Q Is Made From Recycled Plastic, But You Would Never Know It. [online] Health. Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
Gaitho, M., n.d. Killer Fashion: Fashion Kills Marine Life!. [online] Fabric of the world. Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
Help Save Nature. n.d. Effects Of Plastic On Marine Life. [online] Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
Mallon, S., 2018. Fashion Brands Are Trying To Save Our Marine Life. [online] Longevity. Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020]
McFall-Johnsen, M., 2019. The Fashion Industry Emits More Carbon Than International Flights and Maritime Shipping Combined. Here Are The Biggest Ways It Impacts The Planet.. [online] Business Insider. Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
Panna, G., 2017. The Impact Of The Fashion And Beauty Industries On Marine Life. [online] Vilda Magazine. Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
Pegasus. 2019. The Effect Of Plastic Pollution On Marine Life. [online] Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
Royte, E., 2018. We Know Plastic Is Harming Marine Life. What About Us?. [online] National Geographic. Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
SustainYourStyle. n.d. Fashion's Environmental Impact. [online] Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
SustainYourStyle. n.d. Our Fiber Eco-Review. [online] Available at:[Accessed 29 April 2020].
Cover Photo: Rasande Tyskar via Creative Commons